For OTC 6575 Hub Grappler Kit Front Rear Wheel Hub and Bearing Removal Installer

$499.99 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store dearchan1965
(5834) 99.0%,

Location: Moreno Valley, California
Ships to: US,
Item: 375421502508

Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer
Returns Accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:30 Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Unbranded:Unbranded
Warranty:1 Year
Manufacturer Part Number:6575

Features【High Performance】This hub grappler kit is the complete solution to repair/service the wheel hubs and bearings on the vehicle without removing the steering components or knuckle, effectively avoid unnecessary alignments or the use of a shop press, saving your time and energy.【Powerful Functions】The hub grappler puller set directly replaces for OTC 6575, specially designed to apply maximum force with minimal effort through an impact gun to help easily & properly remove and install the wheel hubs and bearings for minimizing service time.【Upgrade Designs】The jaws are designed and sized to greatly fit wheel hub applications, can be easily, quickly and properly located on the puller bar without use of fasteners. The 6 new adapters increase application coverage. Also includes tie rod/ball joint tool as well as 2 for Ford axle installers.【Easy Operation】The 3/4″ custom drive screw coupled with the special equalizer washer offers smooth operation, helps easily remove and install the hubs and bearings without damage. Comes with Operation Manual.【Superior Material】Made of high quality carbon steel for great strength, prevent corrosion and rust, impact resistance, sturdy and durable. High precision and hardness ensure reliable long-term service.【100% Satisfaction Guarantee】If you’re not satisfied with this 6575 Hub Grappler Tools Set, simply return it for a full refund in 30 days. While you have any questions about our products, please feel free to contact us and we will provide the best service. Always buy confidently in Bonbo! This Hub Grappler Kit directly replaces for OTC 6575, is the complete solution to repair/service the wheel hubs and bearings on the vehicle without removing the steering components or knuckle, effectively avoid unnecessary alignments or the use of a shop press, saving your time and energy. Powerful Functions Specially designed to apply maximum force with minimal effort through an impact gun to help easily & properly remove and install the wheel hubs and bearings for minimizing service time. ” data-position=”triggerHorizontal” style=”box-sizing: border-box; display: block; border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); background: rgba(145, 145, 145, 0.4); width: 35px; height: 35px; border-radius: 50%; outline-style: none; cursor: pointer;”> Jaws Design The jaws are designed and sized to greatly fit wheel hub applications, can be easily, quickly and properly located on the puller bar without use of fasteners. ” data-position=”triggerHorizontal” style=”box-sizing: border-box; display: block; border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); background: rgba(145, 145, 145, 0.4); width: 35px; height: 35px; border-radius: 50%; outline-style: none; cursor: pointer;”> Upgrade Adapters The 6 new adapters increase application coverage. Also includes tie rod/ball joint tool as well as 2 for Ford axle installers. ” data-position=”triggerHorizontal” style=”box-sizing: border-box; display: block; border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); background: rgba(145, 145, 145, 0.4); width: 35px; height: 35px; border-radius: 50%; outline-style: none; cursor: pointer;”> Reliable Service The 3/4″ custom drive screw coupled with the special equalizer washer provides smooth operation while the proprietary heat treating extends its life 5-10 times longer than similar designs. ” data-position=”triggerHorizontal” style=”box-sizing: border-box; display: block; border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); background: rgba(145, 145, 145, 0.4); width: 35px; height: 35px; border-radius: 50%; outline-style: none; cursor: pointer;”> Practical manual Comes with Operation Manual. ” data-position=”triggerHorizontal” style=”box-sizing: border-box; display: block; border: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 255); background: rgba(145, 145, 145, 0.4); width: 35px; height: 35px; border-radius: 50%; outline-style: none; cursor: pointer;”>New Bearing Installation:Step 1. Lightly lubricate the new bearing, and position it for installation.Step 2. Use the wrench to hold the forcing screw nut and turn the forcing screw to press the bearing into the spindle assembly until it bottoms.Step 3. Install the snap ring in the outboard side of the knuckle.Grappler Bearing Removal:Step 1. Remove the snap ring from the outboard side of the knuckle.Step 2. Use a wrench to hold the forcing screw nut and turn the forcing screw to press out the worn bearing.Front Grappler Hub Removal:Use the wrench to hold the forcing screw nut and turn the forcing screw to press out the hub assembly.Storage Suitcase:Blow molding plastic case, convenience to storage, carry and transport, keeping all tools great and organized. Whenever you can easy to get it when you need them. Bearing Change Using Hub Grappler:Step 1. Jack up car with jack stands and chock the wheels. Safety first; Step 2. Remove wheel. Disconnect speed sensor and brake wear indicator bracket;Step 3. Remove caliper. Suspend securely; Step 4. Loosen axle nut (36 mm). This is best done with the rotor still on as you apply the parking brake to hold the rotor while you torque the nut off. I didn’t reinstall wheel bolts during this step but it would probably be a good idea for more secure holding of rotor to hub instead of just the allen bolt. I used a 3/4″ drive 40″ long breaker–came off like butter. Alternatively, you could leave the caliper on and have someone step on the brake. I used the parking brake method. On a front bearing job, you can slide a drift pin through the caliper window and into the vanes of the vented rotor;Step 5. After axle nut is off, remove rotor; Step 6. Remove parking brake hardware and disconnect parking brake cable. This requires pinching of some tabs on the plastic retainer that holds the cable to the spindle. These are located inside the recess where the cable comes into the spindle. I didn’t know this and ended up breaking the tabs by forcing out the plastic retainer from the back side. It still reinstalls snugly without the tabs and I don’t think it will cause a problem. If doing front bearing, this step does not apply;Step 7. Remove tie rod nut (22 mm) and disconnect tie rod. I used the puller with the Grappler kit (pictures 1 & 2). Remove upper control arm nut (19mm) and disconnect upper control arm (picture 3). This came off with several gentle taps with a hammer–no need to pulverize it. Good time to inspect ball joints;Step 8. Press axle from hub. This required the puller tool (picture 4). Suspend axle safely. This is a good time to clean all debris off the speed sensor notches on the axle; Step 9. Reinstall upper control arm and nut. This is to hold the spindle steady while extracting/installing hub and bearing;Step 10. Using the Hub Grappler tool (pictures 5-10): Extract hub. The outer race of the bearing will come off with the hub. Use the kit puller to remove the outer race from the hub. Remove C-clip. Extract old bearing. Clean bearing housing of all loose dirt and rust. Press in new bearing. Install C-clip. Press in hub. I used penetrating lubricant liberally on the hub and bearings during every part of the process. I also put the new bearing in the freezer before starting, and the hub in the freezer after removal, to make installation easier.Step 11. Reassemble everything in reverse order. Careful to align axle teeth with hub teeth. Torque on upper control arm nut is 50 Nm (I just tightened by feel as torquing it would require a crowfoot wrench). Torque on tie rod nut is 55 Nm (this one is easily torqued with standard socket). Used blue loctite on control arm and tie rod nuts, which are plastic-insert lock nuts. Torque on axle nut is 490 Nm (YES 490 Nm!), and this is best done after reassembling parking brake/rotor to keep the hub from spinning (During reassembly, I just tightened axle nut without torquing to seat axle into hub). Good idea to temporarily reinstall wheel lugs to hold rotor to hub when torquing axle nut. For front bearing job, use drift pin in rotor vanes to keep hub from spinning.Step 12. Install sensors and brake calipers. Clean the speed sensor well. It tends to accumulate gunk and rust. I replaced my pads with ceramics since I had the calipers off.Step 13. Install wheel. You’re done. Shouldn’t need alignment if things were aligned prior to procedure.

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